Elystan Street is a 1 Michelin star restaurant in London’s Kensington, a short walk from either South Kensington tube station to the North, or the King’s Road to the South. When Elystan Street opened in 2016, in a site formerly occupied by Tom Aikens’ eponymous signature restaurant (which I loved), I was eager to be amongst the first to try it, because it was run by the well-known chef Philip Howard, who moved there after closing his excellent 2 Michelin star dining room in Mayfair, called Square.  But you’ll see from my review of that first visit that I wasn’t impressed, although I did say I’d go back some time to try it again after it had ‘bedded in’.  So 2.5 years later I came to give Elystan Street another go.

I arrived at 12:20 for my 12:30 reservation, to find the receptionist on the phone, so I nipped to the toilet (small but with nice toiletries). When I returned to reception I was shown into the main dining room (they also have private room) to see it completely empty (and no staff).  The room seemed a little smarter than last time, but Elystan Street still doesn’t use table cloths and table decoration was by way of a small green plant (maybe dill?) instead of flowers.

Restaurant staff appeared at 12:30 and I was given menus at 12:35. Bread and butter arrived at 12:45: sliced brown sourdough, no selection to choose from, or description of the butter or bread, but they both tasted nice. 3/10

I finally got to place my order at 12:52, half an hour after being seated, which is just too long, especially in an almost empty restaurant!  I was eating a la carte, but I really didn’t find the menu inspiring; it was simple, basic fare (eg cod, beef, chicken, vegetarian), with mains priced between £29 and £39. The starters seemed more interesting, but were priced up to £35 for a langoustine cocktail!

Like on my previous visit, there were no snacks/canapés/amuses bouches offered.

My starter was a bright green and fragrant wild garlic and parsley veloute with fresh morels. On the side were three petite tartlets of creamed mushroom duxelles topped with grated parmesan. The tartlets were really delicious, and while I liked the soup too, for its strong flavours, vibrant colour and the subtle yet meaty morels, after a while I felt it had too much salt for my tastes. 8.5/10

Bizarrely, whilst I was eating my starter I was brought two little bowls of salted almonds and green olives!  Surely this should have been with me at the start of the meal??!! -3/10

My main course was calf’s liver with pommes puree, spinach, a roasted carrot, glazed endive and crispy onion pieces, with a gravy.  The liver was about 1cm thick and nice and pink inside, but it wasn’t the best piece of liver, as it was still quite ‘tubey’ and chewy.  I have to boast that the calf’s liver I bought in a butcher’s just down the road from the restaurant turned out much much better.  The mashed potato was nice, but not in the league of the late Joel Robuchon (RIP). 7/10

For dessert I had a creme caramel with golden raisins, and a lovey raisin jam. This was a very good, rich and creamy creme caramel!  I wasn’t given a fork with my spoon for dessert, which really annoys me, but luckily the dish was curved at the edges, so I could eat with just the spoon. 9/10

By this stage it was 14:05. I actually wasn’t at all pressed for time, before a hospital appointment, but I think this is too long for a lunch service if you have places to go and meetings to attend.

I finished off with a double espresso, which I found a little bitter. There weren’t any petit fours to sweeten things up. 3/10

So once again, I regret to report that I left Elystan Street underwhelmed. There were only a few strong dishes or elements which properly reflected the skills of a former 2 star chef (and Philip Howard was in the kitchen). The food was too “home style” for me; for fine dining I would choose Claude Bosi at Bibendum, just a couple of hundred metres down the road (but it wasn’t open on a Wednesday lunchtime).  But if you live in the area, and fancy good home cooking in a ‘neighbourhood’ style restaurant, then this place might be for you.  But I think the food is too highly priced not to have all the little extras one associates with a Michelin restaurant, like an amuse bouche, a table cloth and petit fours.  And it would be nice if the service was less laid back.  My total bill, including water and a carafe of pinot noir, came to £104.  5/10