Mr A and I needed to nightstop in Nairobi, between landing on an evening flight and flying into the bush the next day, for a safari.  The famous Giraffe Manor had been on my list as a place to stay and to see the giraffes, but I found it to be very expensive, and its rooms were too compact for me.  Then I found Hemingway’s, part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the world grouping, which looked good, had spacious rooms, was not too expensive, and it was quite close to the Giraffe Centre, so we could still get to see these unique creatures before embarking on our safari.  Hemingways is also a member of American Express Fine Hotels and Resorts, but I chose to book through the hotel’s website because we wouldn’t have time or opportunity to make use of the additional benefits which come with Amex bookings. A deluxe suite was US$675 B&B.

We arrived at the hotel around 10pm after a 40 minute drive in a hotel car. The entrance looked very grand (grander than the photo suggests) and a very helpful lady checked us in and made suggestions for our trip to the Giraffe Centre and our transfer to Wilson airport in the morning.  The hotel’s standard check out time is an eye-rubbing 10am, but they agreed to give us until noon.

We were escorted the short distance to our suite; no. 31, named the “Livingstone suite”, which looked wonderfully ‘colonial-era’ in its styling, with a four-poster bed draped in mosquito nets, a writing desk, chairs and soft sofas. One wall had a large photo of grazing game on it.

There was a large bathroom with a freestanding tub in its centre and wash basins at each end, toilet and shower room, all offset with marble floor tiles and fixtures.  Opposite the bath was a large walk-in wardrobe with enough storage space for an explorer’s whole season’s kit.  Everything was of good quality and very clean.

We walked back up to the main building and had a couple of drinks and some snacks in their 1st floor bar, where a large TV was showing a live Liverpool match (though we stayed outside on the veranda).  I was struck by the warmth and friendliness of the staff, who even allowed me to ask them about Kenyan politics, because I was keen to learn about ordinary Kenyans’ reaction to the death of their former president a week earlier. (answer; it depends which tribe you’re from).

After a comfortable sleep we awoke, drew back our curtains and went onto our balcony to see the hotel’s beautifully manicured gardens and pretty birds swooping about catching breakfast beneath dark clouds.  With the cloud cover and Nairobi’s 6000 feet altitude, there air was a chilly 14C – not what I was expecting on the equator, but it was mild enough for us to walk around the property.

Breakfast was served in the hotel Bistro. There was a smallish buffet with most of the staples expected by an international traveller, plus a la carte hot dishes.  As usual, I went for the Eggs Benedict. I would say it was all adequate, rather than luxurious.

After breakfast we set off to the Giraffe Centre, about 15 minutes away in quiet Sunday traffic.  Hemingway’s had allocated us the same car and driver as last night’s airport transfer, and he was going to be the one to take us to Wilson airport later; a really nice idea, which allowed us to get to know the driver better.  This relationship proved useful when our driver offered to pay for our Giraffe Centre entry, using his MPESA mobile phone payment system, because the centre does not accept any cash and we didn’t have cards on us.  We reimbursed him the Ksh1,500 each from our wallets.

Back at the hotel we showered and packed before going to reception to settle up.  There was a discrepancy on our bill – they upgraded our suite (without telling us), but tried to charge us the higher suite rate – but it was quickly amended.  The total bill, including our evening drinks and snacks, and the car transfers, came to US$856.  We watched as staff busily got ready for the hotel’s famous Sunday Brunch service which attracts well-heeled Kenyans living in this rather exclusive suburb of Nairobi.

We set off for Wilson airport very content with our choice of hotel, and very happy with being able to fit in the Giraffe Centre visit, thanks to the friendly staff flexing our check out time.  Hemingways is a good hotel in a beautiful peaceful spot, with excellent staff.  8.5/10