The Legian hotel has been on my bucket list for several years, because of its regular mentions in Conde Nast Traveller, and because it’s a member of the Leading Hotels of the World grouping.   The Legian offers just 67 suites beside the beach in Seminyak, which is part of the dense urban sprawl running all the way from the airport, Denpasar and Kuta. The Legian’s website says the hotel is 30 minutes from the airport, but it took us an hour when we arrived at 8pm on 31st July 2019. That was frustratingly slow, given that the airport terminal is visible from the hotel, but traffic volume and the slow pace of driving on Bali is quite an issue these days!

My mood was brightened when we were taken to our room.  I had booked a Studio Suite for US$2300 for 3 nights, including breakfast and taxes, but they had upgraded me (no idea why) to an Ocean View Executive Suite. It was a huge room!  From the entrance foyer we passed a pantry (with comp soft drinks, one beer and snacks, and a coffee pod machine), a toilet, then a dining area where daily fresh fruit was displayed, then a lounge/seating area with a low level coffee table, TV and writing desk.  From the lounge area we could access our large terrace balcony with table and chairs and a double day bed, which overlooked the hotel’s 3-tiered swimming pool, its gardens and the crashing ocean beyond.  Evening turn-down included the lighting of candles on the terrace which added to the romance of the location.

Next to the lounge was the bedroom; a spacious room containing a super-king bed which was dressed in fine white mosquito nets at night, wardrobes and drawers. Insect repellent was provided, but we didn’t see any mosquitos during our stay.  Off the bedroom was a very large bathroom at least the same size as the bedroom, with twin wash basins, a toilet, a good-sized shower and a bathtub.

Aqua di Parma toiletries were provided, as well as all the little items you might have left at home, including dental care and sun lotion.

Breakfast is served in the hotel’s ground floor restaurant which is called “The Restaurant”. It’s an open-sided room with tables continuing onto the outside terrace which leads down to the swimming pools.  Very attractive and reminiscent of The Dining Room at The Datai hotel, but not quite as excellent.  On our first morning and each subsequent one we were welcomed to breakfast by the GM, Hans, and his deputy Alain. I always appreciate it when senior management is visible and accessible.  Breakfast was a very tasty buffet plus ‘made to order’ from the a la carte. Service was prompt and friendly.

On our 2nd evening we had dinner in The Restaurant, after being tempted by a sign saying they’d had a fresh delivery of truffles from Italy!  We began extravagantly with a glass of Taittinger, but we were disappointed that we didn’t get any canapés or an amuse bouche.

We both started with sautéed Foie Gras and followed it with Risotto with truffles. The latter was nice, but not great (rice a little over) 7.5/10. Our tranche of foie gras unusually and unfittingly came with a coconut foam which did nothing for me. 8/10. Overall The Restaurant had a good menu, but its execution was not the best.

Comfortable, well-padded sun loungers with fresh towels are scattered around the 3-tiered swimming pool and on some of the lawns beachside. The Legian doesn’t put loungers on the actual beach, but the hotels either side of it do plant “AirAsia” branded sun umbrellas in the sand, which is a bit ‘down-market’.  During our stay, depending on the tides, the beach ranged from 1m to 50m in depth, and it’s quite a busy thoroughfare for the general public.  So we were very comfortable using the loungers on the hotel lawn, with stone steps leading down to the sand.  Swimming in the sea is ‘at your own risk’ because of the waves and rips.

All guests are entitled to comp afternoon tea each day, which can be served in your suite or at your sun lounger. Very civilised, but a little too much sugar for my liking.

The Legian Spa is very calm and welcoming, with a very broad menu of treatments. From the reception area I was taken outside to the treatment pavilions in a building closer to the beach. Note the fish pond in the photo above: there are lots of these around the hotel entrance and when you pass them shoals of colourful Koi Carp swim towards you. They’re anticipating food pellets, which reception will give you.

The Legian doesn’t have an on-site nurse or doctor, but when I needed to see a doctor the hotel arranged for one to be in my suite in 15 minutes, which impressed me.

Overall I found The Legian to be a very good hotel 8/10 which was only let down by the busy and hectic Seminyak area on its doorstep, thanks to the way that area and most of Bali’s south cost has expanded and (over)developed in recent years. I found it all a bit too much, however the upside is that there are lots of boutiques, bars and restaurants very close by. We only stayed 3 nights because we were using it as a springboard to head inland to see different parts of Bali.